Peter

mei 172015
 

 

DynamoOrigineel

Original dynamo removed from engine

Because the above dynamo, mounted to my engine, was originally from a XK120 I needed to look for the correct one.

This dynamo has a brass identification plate with the following information:
Lucas 22452B, GC51, C45PVS/5, 12V, 53

The dynamo I needed should have the following numbers:
Lucas ,22462B, GC51, C45PVS/5, 12V, 56

An other XK140 restorer in my neighborhood offered me a deal I couldn’t refused.
Exchange mine xk120 dynamo for a correct, fully restored, xk140 dynamo and give him a small reimbursement for the parts he used for the restoration.

DynamoParts

All parts needed for rebuilding the dynamo

All separate parts are again sandblasted and pained black so they all look again as new.
To prevent rust, and make it easier to remove them in the future, the bolts are also painted black and mounted with a little bit tectyle.

DynamoMounted

Dynamo and engine brackets mounted on the engine

 Posted by at 14:05
mei 172015
 

MotorOrigineel

Front side of the engine with wrong fan blade

Originally the engine inside my car was equipped with the wrong type of fan blade. Instead of the xk140 type blade (symetric) it was equipped with the xk120 fan blade (a-symatric)

CoolingFanParts

All parts needed to rebuild the fan blade installation

With the fan blade mounted the front of the engine is now almost finished. Only the cylinder head is missing, which is still at the machinery.

It is not completely clear if the aluminium blades should be painted black or not, the documentation is not very consistent. Most original pictures/photos show the bare aluminium without any paint.

CoolingFanMounted

 Posted by at 12:54
mrt 222015
 

The water pump, in this photo located between fan and front part of the engine, will be restored completely. The cooling capacity of these cars is not very over engineered so to keep the engine cool the water pomp need to be in top condition.

WaterPumpOrg

My first idea was to reuse the impeller, originally they have 4 blades, but removing them is a difficult job. Because the impeller is made of cast-iron and pressed unto the bearing axle it is almost impossible to remove them with breaking. Secondly I could not find the correct water sealing ring.

So I decided to buy a water pomp repair kit (SBS7272) with:

  • 6 blade impeller (they have a smaller inside diameter)
  • Bearing (one side has a smaller axle to receive the impeller)
  • Water sealing ring
  • Gasket

    WaterPumpParts

    Parts needed to rebuild the water pump

After the impeller and carrier for the pulley are pressed onto the bearing axle the water pump can be mounted onto the front side of the engine.

WaterPumpFinished

Rebuild water pomp mounted to the front side of the engine

 

 Posted by at 18:14
mrt 012015
 

The oil sump is one of the last parts which will close the lower part of engine block. Today I tried to mount the oil seal ring at the rear cover and found out that this part should be installed just before the crankshaft is installed. After measuring all parts a came to the conclusion that it should work if;

  • Shorten the ring dowels (C2373) with 2 mm (still 2.5 mm left for alignment)
  • Shorten the center bold with 4 mm (still enough thread left)

The advantage is that it will always be possible to remove it again 🙂 The oil seal ring, which consists of two halves, is shown in the picture below.

Oil Sump Parts

All parts for rebuilding the oil sump

 

 

hdr

Lower engine block almost finished

When all oil sump parts are mounted the lower engine block looks almost complete. Only the oil cleaner, crank shaft damper and engine brackets are missing on this photo. I still have to decide what the next assembly parts will be!

 Posted by at 17:52
feb 222015
 

All parts are cleaned and oil rings, locking plates and gaskets replaced.
The oil pump clearance is still within specification (inside 8/100, outside 8/100) and can be reused.

hdr

All parts need to rebuild the oil pump

Below the oil pump before and after the restoration process.

 Oil Pump Finished

 Posted by at 20:47
feb 222015
 

First everything has been cleaned (some steel and aluminium parts are glass bead blasted)
The oil seal and gaskets are replace with fresh ones.
All sprockets still look fine (all teeth still have a the flat surface on the top)

hdr

All parts needed to install the timing gear

hdr

Front engine without the timing gear

In the below picture the timing gear is installed completely. Also the timing gear cover and dynamo adjustment bracket is mounted. The Engine is now ready to receive the engine head.
The position where the water pump will be mounted, with 9 bolts, is clearly visible now.

Timing Gear Finished

 Posted by at 19:43
feb 222015
 

Before assembly of the engine could start all bearings are measured:

  • Mains bearings (6/100, still within specification)
    To prevent honing the crankshaft(I can only be done twice, and it will get less riged) I accept the play as it is.
  • Thrust washers (with one STD and one oversize 11/100)
  • Big-end bearings (4/100, still within specification)
  • Small-end bearing (No notable play)
CrankshaftDirty

Original uncleaned bottom view of the crankshaft

All separate parts are thoroughly cleaned and the following parts are bought new:

  • New main bearings (STD)
  • New big-end bearings (STD)
  • New thrust washers (STD + oversize)
  • New piston set (complete with 4 rings, gudgeon pin and circlips)
Crank Shaft parts

All cleaned and new parts needed to mount the crank shaft and pistons

Remarks:

  • Don’t forget the oil sealing ring at the rear block before the crankshaft is mounted.
  • Mount the bearing so the indicators will match (they are all numbered and the engine block also has these numbers stamped into the casting) Numbers should be kept at the inlet side.
  • The pistons are number from 1 until 6 starting from the backside of the block
  • The piston numbers are stamped into the connection rod and the big-end bearing cap
  • The piston numbers should be readable from the exhaust side
  • The compression piston rings should be mounted in opposite direction 0 and 180 degrees. I also mounted the oil scrapper rings at 90 and 270 degrees.
  • When piston 1 and 6 are in the TDC position the distributor shaft Distributor Shaft Positionshould be positioned at 5 to 5. The distributor shaft will make a half rotation when the crankshaft has made one.
  • When the timing chain is connected to camshaft make sure the distributor shaft is positioned as shown on the picture.
    (Remark the notch is positioned left from the middle at 5 to 5)

Because I found some pictures, original made in jaguar factory with painted text, I painted the “Jaguar” logo and the text “3 1/2 litre” in white.
Bellow the engine block with the pistons and crankshaft completely mounted.

hdr

Engine with the crankshaft and pistons installed

CrankShaftFinished

Crankshaft, bearing caps and connecting rods installed 

 Posted by at 17:42
jan 132015
 

Jaguar XK140The jaguar XK’s by PaulSkilleter (ISBN 0 900549 49 1)

Jaguar XK120-140-150Jaguar XK 120/140/150 cream of the cats byDuncan Wherrett (ISBN 1 85532 773 2)

Jaguar overhaul

Workshop Manual for Jaguar XK120, XK140, XK150 1948-61 Mark 7, 8, 9, 1950-61

Jaguar book

Jaguar World (Jaguar 6 Cylinder Engine Overhaul 1948-1986) by Kelsey Publishing Limited (ISBN 1 873098 32 4)

XK120 restaurationOn Jaguar XK120 Restauration by Kelsey Publishing Limited (ISBN 1 873098 38 1)

XK140 restorer guideOriginal Jaguar XK The restorer’s Guide by Philip Porter (ISBN 0 7603 1737 2)

Original Jaguar XK by Philip Porter (ISBN 1 870979 05 2)

xk140 viartJaguar XK140 explored by Bernard Viart (ISBN 978 0 9550102 7 9)

XK140 manualJaguar XK140 Models operating, maintenance and service handbook by Jaguar

xk120 manualJaguar operating, maintenance and service handbook for 3 1/2 litre XK120 by Jaguar

 Posted by at 21:14
jan 132015
 

During the restoration process I found several times parts which looks different from what is described in the literature. (see Jaguar Books)

So far I found the following differences:

Doors

Most of the jaguar XK140 have doors that are made from aluminium steel and wood. The cars who are made in the last two production years can also be equipped with full steel doors. One of the most striking differences is the absence of the diagonal pull rod.

Wheel Spats

The spats which where mounted on my car have some extra horizontal reinforcement strip. Until today I have never found any pictures of this type of wheel spats.

Front seats

Normally the XK140 seat frames are made from a L shaped profile which is used for the outside floor frame. The backrest hinge is connected to this L shaped profile. The backrest is connected to the hinge via a steel plate.

seat frames

Raised seat frame on a 1956 XK140 FHC

My car has a raised edge on the backside of the floor frame. also the backrest hinge has been moved to the raised part (see photo). The backrest is connected to the hinge via metal tubes.

The construction looks identical to the one used on XK150 models with one exception they are smaller. Inside the XK150 was, due to thinner doors, more room for seats inside the interior.

 Posted by at 20:53
jan 042015
 

The last part needed to complete the gearbox / bell housing is the striking gear. The part makes the translation from movement of the gear stick to selecting the correct gears inside the gearbox.

The Xk140 has the normal H shape for 1st, 2nd, 3th and 4th gear. The reverse gear is placed on the left side of the 1st gear. Before the reverse gear can be selected the gear stick must be pressed to the left with a little pressure before it can be moved forward.

Striking Gear Parts

All parts needed to assemble the striking gear

A fresh gasket will be use to mount the assembled striking gear on top of the gearbox.

Striking Gear Mounted Striking Gears Detail
Above the assembled striking gear (right a detail of the gear selection mechanism)

Now everything for the gearbox and bell housing has been finished we can start assembling the engine.

 Posted by at 17:02