nov 302014
 

After I received the engine block from the revision company I started to remove all external rust. The dirt and crease was already removed before it went to this company. The outside of the block can now be sprayed with special engine paint (MOTIP engine paint black gloss) which can withstand 150 degrees.

Engine Painted

Due to experience from other XK restorers (replaced freeze plugs came loose) I decided to leave the freeze plug in place because they still look and feel very thick (it was not possible to make dents in them with a hammer). On the original block there where also no signs of leakage. The plugs didn’t show any damage/rust when inspected from the inside (via water channels)

The basis for the engine block is now finished and we can start with the following items (which will be handle in separate parts):

 Posted by at 16:08
jul 022014
 

Cilinder Head

After all valves where removed and cleaned it was clear, that from the to heads (24 valves), a good set of valves could be combined. Some of the valves show corrosion damaged and can’t be used anymore. The corrosion in the water ports are not to bad and can be left as they are now.

CilinderHeadTop

CilinderHeadBottomCilinderHeadNumber
One tappet guide should be replaced because it is cracked (became visible  after cleaning)

Because one of the mounted camshafts (outlet) where from a XK120 (less valve lift) I bought an other one from a jaguar MK2 (C13081) Together with the mounted inlet valve is C13080 we have a matched set again.

Cilinder Block

After removing all main bearings and the crankshaft we could start removing the pistons.
Because the block has not be moved for over 46 years this was not a easy job. The first three pistons could be removed quite easily but the last three where deadlocked. After I applied penetrating oil and wait a couple of weeks, I managed to knock them one by one loose with a block of wood and a heavy hammer.

One of the six cylinder walls was badly damaged by corrosion.

All parts needed to rebuild the head and block are thoroughly cleaned and sorted, ready for the machinery.

 Posted by at 11:53
jun 102014
 

I started with the Xk140 block with the Xk120 head.EngineFrontDirty

The water pump, pulley and crankshaft damper are correct and can be reused for assembly of the original XK140 engine.

The Inlet manifold on the XK140 head was damaged by corrosion, but in the mean time I found a good replacement on the internet.

EngineInletDirty

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The shown fan blades are suitable for a XK120 luckily the other engine has a XK140 fan blades mounted so that one will be used instead.

Both engines where not able to turn around freely, so the 46 years of sitting still, has not been good for the overall condition. Was the engine stalled at some time, there is only one way to find out.

After removal of the oil sump the internals of the engine looked pretty normal. No broken crankshaft or broken connecting rods or other visible damage.

Remark: Label all bearing cap so they can be mounted on the exact same location and orientation. (In my case all caps where already marked with a unique id and number)

CrankshaftDirty

XK140 block without bearing caps

 

OilPumpDirty

Oil pump with connection pipes

After everything is disassembled and thoroughly cleaned I started with the the removal of cylinder head. Still searching for the cause of the not freely turning engine.

When the cylinders and pistons where visible, after the head was removed, it was all clear. Two cylinders where completely filled with lime, rust and dirt. After this was removed it was visible that one cylinder was badly damaged.
After measuring the diameter I found out that all cylinders where still standard with about 6/1000″ of wear.

Most probably the cylinder has to be drilled two sizes bigger +0.020 due to wear and corrosion damage.

Although the bearing caps has a unique id and number (stamped in the block and bearing caps) someone also made some unnecessary identification with a  center punch (one has been marked wrongly!).

CamShaftCapsCleanXk140

Cleaned cam shaft bearing caps

 

 Posted by at 19:54
aug 292014
 

Today I brought the cylinder-head and cylinder-block to “Rombouts revisie” in goirle.

The measured clearance:

  • Crankshaft STD with 15/100 mm clearance
  • Inlet Camshaft STD with no visible play
  • Outlet Camshaft STD with no visible play
  • Piston 1 STD with 15/100 mm clearance
  • Piston 2 STD with 15/100 mm clearance
  • Piston 3 STD with 15/100 mm clearance
  • Piston 4 STD with 15/100 mm clearance
  • Piston 5 STD with 15/100 mm clearance (after drilling to 75/100 mm still corrosion visable)
  • Piston 6 STD with 25/100 mm clearance (after drilling to 50/100 mm still corrosion visable)
  • To match play on the valve guides
  • Valve seats are worn and will be replaced by unleaded fuel types

.010″ = 10/1000″ = 0,25 mm = 25/100 mm
.020″ = 20/1000″ = 0,50 mm = 50/100 mm

Engine Drilling Machinery Engine Drilling Detail

Before the actual revision started they executed a cylinder head water pressure test to discover possible water leakage. (Due to the visible corrosion in the cylinder head) The conclusion was that it already started to leak inside combustion chamber 5 at a very low water pressure level. The advise was to look for a different cylinder head due to the high corrosion level in combustion chamber 4, 5 and 6. So I brought my XK120 head for the same test and although the water channels where no so good, the combustion chambers where much much better. Because the head between the XK120 and XK140 are technically equal (except for the number stamped into the casting) I decided to take the XK120 head.

The valves from both heads (24 in total) are not usable anymore because;

  • 10 pieces are damaged by corrosion
  • 7 pieces are shortened to compensate the excessive valve seat wear.

Work for the revision company:

  • Re-sleeve cylinder wall 5 and 6
  • Drill all cylinders to +020
  • Flattening of the cylinder block
  • Water pressure tests on two different XK cylinder heads
  • Replace all valve seats with unleaded fuel types
  • Replace all valve guides
  • Flattening of the cylinder head
  • Welding all damaged water channels in the cylinder head (12 x)
    The discoloring around the water channels shows what has been welded

Cylinderhead Detail Cylinderhead

In the mean time I ordered the following new parts:

  • 6 Pistons oversize +20
  • 6 inlet valves
  • 6 exhaust valves
  • Crankshaft bearing
  • Thrust bearing
  • Big end bearings
  • Camshaft bearing
  • Bottom gasket set (including oil seals)
  • Top gasket set (including oil seals)

All preparation has been finished (10 october 2014), the assembly process can now be started.

 Posted by at 14:13
mei 262014
 

When I purchased the car, it was possible to buy a second spare engine.
The engine which belongs to the car consists of a XK120 block and XK140 head.
The spare engine consists of  a XK140 block and XK120 head.

To be able to build a complete XK140 engine I decided to buy the extra engine for Euro 750.

EnginesBuy

 

Engine 1:

  • Head G8877-7
  • Block W1800-8

 

Engine 2:

  • Head W7707-8
  • Block G9274-8S

 

 

Now after almost 5 year I started to disassemble both engines and found, due to 46 year of stagnation,  the following issues:

  • Sparkplug snapped of
  • Thread for sparkplug gone
  • Combustion-chambers damaged due to corrosion
  • Cylinder wear 
  • Pistons stuck in cilinder
  • Inlet and exhaust valves/seats damaged due to corrosion
  • Wrong type of camshafts mounted in the XK140 head (C13080 and C2444, required c5717 and c5718)

Hopefully it will be possible to combine the good parts from both engines and try to find the missing parts.

 Posted by at 20:10
sep 052018
 

The fairing panel, the connection between the two front wings, has been removed completely because the front wings were also removed.  This piece already shown some cracks on the places where is was welded onto the front wings. Now the front wings are remounted again the fairing panel, after it has been repaired, can also be put back again. To smooth out the surface a layer of lead has been applied, to prevent a tick layer of filler during the paint job.

Front wings without the fairing panel

Fairing panal rewelded onto the front wings

New layer of lead applied to smooth out the surface

New layer of epoxy primer

Bonnet fitment onto the fairing panel

 Posted by at 18:23
jan 102016
 

In the previous chapter “Clutch unit”, the parts needed to rebuild the flywheel are also shown.

NewPartsClutchUnit

Flywheel parts together with clutch unit parts

Below the flywheel mounted on the crankshaft. The spigot bush was still in good condition, so no need to replace (located in the center of the crankshaft).

FlyWheelMounted

Flywheel mounted with ten bolts and lock with a locking plate 

ClutchUnitMounted

Flywheel and clutch unit together mounted on the crankshaft

Torque used to tighten the ten flywheel bolts is 67 ft/lb or 91 N/m.

 Posted by at 19:23
aug 212011
 

Below a picture from the chassis before the previous owner started disassembling it.

ChassisOrg

After all small parts where removed I could start with removing all dirt and grease which was present in large quantities. This is for all classic cars, especially for English cars, the reason why the chassis could be kept in good shape after 50 years.
I found a strange number (225) on the right side of the chassis, nearby the fuel pump. Until today I haven’d found an explanation for these marks. Because they look authentic I decided to leave them where the are.

After I protected all threads and chassis numbers with dummy screws the chassis could be delivered at sand blasting company.

ChassisBlasted

The chassis looked as new after it was sand blasted, there are only two places with minimal rust(on both side where the battery was located). I sandpapered the whole chassis before I sprayed it in epoxy primer. After the paint was full dried I filled up all seams with 3M seams kit.

ChassisPrimer

The last step for the restoration of the chassis was spraying it into two layers of black chassis paint.

ChassisPaint

 Posted by at 15:26
nov 012020
 

When I bought the car the original wooden floor boards where not available anymore. The openings where closed with a very thin piece of cheap plywood. All needed mounting material was also not available anymore.

I was able to borrow an original left and right side floorboard. With the help of these floorboards i was able to buy all missing parts. I also uses them as template for the new floorboards.

All small parts needed to mount the floor boards
Left side floor board
Right side floor board

The left and right floorboards mounted on the body
 Posted by at 17:15