Restauration Jaguar XK140 FHC

Left Front Wing

Front Wings, Left Front Wing No Responses »

apr 172017

One of the last big metal work pieces are the front wings. After the left front wing was cleaned thoroughly the following repairs need to be done before the wing can be painted inside.

The valance assembly has several holes of 1″” drilled for some unknown reason.
Headlight pod has extensive rust in the under side of the headlight mounting area.
The lower edge of the front side has a small hole due to rust (about 2″ by 1/4″)
The steady bracket which mount to the battery box has some rust
Dents in the area around the flashing light (due to badly repair after a collision in the past)

Cleaning the inside

The inside of the wings are protected with a very tick layer of tar which protected the inside from rust.
From the photo it is clearly visible that it did his you very well. The right side, the part behind the mud shield, which was not protected is much more affected by rust.

After the layer of tar was removed with a small torch and a putty knife the undamaged metal became visible.

When the whole surface was cleaned with a poly-carbide steel brush the front wing looks like new again. All difficult to reach area’s are now sandblasted so the inside is now ready to receive the first layer of epoxy primer.

Headlight pod

Due to long lasting condensation inside the headlight pod the lower part has been damaged by extensive rust. First the lead, used to smooth up the connection between headlight pod and front wing, is removed. Now all by rust affected material is removed and the holes in the front wing are welded. Now we know how much material is missing we can start with producing the new pieces.

The new pieces are fitted for the last time and welded unto the headlight pod. The last step is reapply the lead to smooth out connection between the wing and headlight pod.

When I was investigating the headlight pod from the right side front wing (which is not rusted at all) i found a small hole in the lowest part. My first impression was that there was a small hole due to rust but after looking in more detail to the inside area it looks like a small hole to drain water. I will make such a hole in the left headlight pod as well.

The valance assembly

The holes in the left front valance, which are certainly not original, needs to be removed. In total 9 holes where drilled. With this amount of holes it is better to just remove the hole affected area as one piece and remove it for a new piece.

Painting

The inside inclusive the valance will be painted in the following order:

Epoxy primer
Body schutz (Protective coating helps protect from corrosion and chips)
The inside will be painted satin gloss
The following parts are painted in Pearl grey
- Valance assembly (both sides)
- Headlamp light unit container (inside)
- Side lamps casing (inside)

Left Rear Wing

Left Rear Wing, Rear Wings No Responses »

jul 312017

Repair

The left rear wing has two attention areas;

The lower edge at the door side
The upper part also at the door side

The repair areas marked with grey paint

Cleaning

Now that the rear wing has been repaired the thin layer of rust can be easily removed with a wire brush and sand paper.

Painting

Now that the inside is nicely shining again the following activities can take place;

Apply a fresh layer of Epoxy primer.
Make sure all seals are seamed. (3M Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer)
Apply a protective layer to prevent chipping. (3M Textured Anti-chip Coating)
Last but not least a layer of satin black paint to make it easier to clean the inside.

Lower Body

Body, Lower Body No Responses »

aug 182010

The lower body side was partly covered with dirt and undercoating. The undercoating had already been released in many places and must be removed completely to be able to remove all rust.

Dirt and undercoating removed

Now all rust in the above picture must be removed. With the help of some chemicals and steel brushes the job was finished successfully.

All rust on the bottom side removed

Now the fun part could start, spraying the underside body with Epoxy primer. But before the spraying could start we finished the whole surface with sand paper, en just before spraying removed all dust with thinner.

After the epoxy primer is thoroughly dried all seams are filled with 3M seal-kit. This kit, the small black lines in the above right picture, will creep between the different layers of sheet metal. When the procedure is performed on both sides the space between different layers of sheet-metal will be hermetically sealed. So hopefully no rust anymore 🙂

The last process step is adding a thick layer of anti chipping material and last but not least two layers of black paint. The last layer of paint will make it more easily to remove dirt from the underside in the near future.

Lower Rear Panel

Lower Rear Panel No Responses »

aug 012010

When I received the car I already noticed the damage on the lower rear panel. I looked like some kind of parking damage maybe 40 years ago. The metal hidden behind several layer of paint and tick layers ot putty was completely crumpled and beyond repair.
This is a very difficult part to make by your one because it is curved in two directions. This is only possible with a the help of a English wheel, which is not available in a do it your self workshop.
After a small search on the internet I found a guy in Madeira who could deliver this part for only €165 (including shipping costs)
The URL of this company is http://www.nsfcoachbuilders.com/sale_parts/Jaguar_XK_140

After the new panel was remounted the overlapping areas on both sides should be filled with lead. I don’t want to use putty because originally they used lead as well. Lead soldering looks easy but it is much more difficult as it looks. The advantage is that the lead can be reused time after time. So with a lot of patient I succeeded at the end. With just a thin layer of zinc spray everything looks like new again.

Lower Wishbone

Lower Wishbone No Responses »

sep 302012

All separate parts used to rebuild lower wishbone.

Mud Shields

Body, Mud Shields No Responses »

apr 272020

The protect the body of the car Jaguar designed a mud shield which was mounted just behind the battery box to prevent water and dirt entering the car via this way.

Area on the right side has been closed with the mud shield

Area on the left side has been closed with the mud shield

Parts need for mounting the Left and right side mud shields behind the battery boxes

The space between the inner front wing and the mud shield is sealed of with a rubber strip. On the photo above the mounting mechanism for the rubber strip can been seen on both sides of the mud shield

Oil cleaner

Engine No Responses »

dec 302015

The above photo shows the engine in an abandoned part of someone’s yard, somewhere in the states. In this picture the oil cleaner is clearly visible.

Early and later type oil cleaners housing

In the pile with parts, which came together with the car, two types of oil cleaners where present.

One with the bolt from the top
This type is called “Early XK140 type” and was painted completely (housing and canister) brown (some sort of metallic paint was used).
One with the bolt from the bottom
This type is called “Later XK140 type and there only the canister was painted brown (solid)
Also the id tag, normally placed on the front or side, is not available on this one.
Because my car comes originally from 1956 I will choose the “Later” type.

Parts to rebuild the oil cleaner

The small oil union, mounted on top of the cleaner housing, was the last part that was needed to complete the rebuild of the oil cleaner. (found this part via ebay UK)

The oil canister has been painted with solid acrylic paint (RAL 8011). This color comes closest to the original sample.

Rebuild oil cleaner mounted to the fresh XK140 engine

Oil pump

Engine No Responses »

feb 222015

All parts are cleaned and oil rings, locking plates and gaskets replaced.
The oil pump clearance is still within specification (inside 8/100, outside 8/100) and can be reused.

All parts need to rebuild the oil pump

Below the oil pump before and after the restoration process.

Oil sump

Engine No Responses »

mrt 012015

The oil sump is one of the last parts which will close the lower part of engine block. Today I tried to mount the oil seal ring at the rear cover and found out that this part should be installed just before the crankshaft is installed. After measuring all parts a came to the conclusion that it should work if;

Shorten the ring dowels (C2373) with 2 mm (still 2.5 mm left for alignment)
Shorten the center bold with 4 mm (still enough thread left)

The advantage is that it will always be possible to remove it again 🙂 The oil seal ring, which consists of two halves, is shown in the picture below.

All parts for rebuilding the oil sump

Lower engine block almost finished

When all oil sump parts are mounted the lower engine block looks almost complete. Only the oil cleaner, crank shaft damper and engine brackets are missing on this photo. I still have to decide what the next assembly parts will be!

Petrol Filler Box

Body No Responses »

aug 072021

All parts need to restore the petrol filler box and connection to the fuel tank

On the parts overview I forgot to place the overflow tube which drops spilled liquids inside the petrol filler box. (Same as the tube used between brake reservoir and brake cylinder. This tube can also been seen on the “Petrol filler box new” photo.

The cover has 8 holes but the car one show 6, so the two screw in the front bottom are not place originally.

The hose clamp around the overflow pipe was originally not place but was not sure if it will stay in place under all conditions. (Petrol inside the car is not a very reassuring thought, better safe than sorry)

Older Entries Newer Entries