Peter

Hydraulic Press

 Hydraulic Press  No Responses »
mei 132012
 

The bearings from the two rear shafts are not easy to remove. To finish this job I needed a hydraulic press, because these tools are not very cheap, especially  when you need them only once, I decided to make one myself. On a Saturday I wend to the old iron scrap yard and arranged some old heavy iron. From the design I made upfront I already had a rough idea what i needed.

HydraulicPressDesign

The hydraulic press design, made in google sketchup

After a number of hours hard work It was finished. Together with the 12 tons hydraulic jack it should do the job.

HydraulicPress

The real hydraulic press

After placing the two rear shafts into the freezer and heating the race bearing with a plumber burner and about 8 ton of pressure the race bearings came loose, job completed!!

 Posted by at 16:45

Frame

 Frame  No Responses »
aug 212011
 

Below a picture from the chassis before the previous owner started disassembling it.

ChassisOrg

After all small parts where removed I could start with removing all dirt and grease which was present in large quantities. This is for all classic cars, especially for English cars, the reason why the chassis could be kept in good shape after 50 years.
I found a strange number (225) on the right side of the chassis, nearby the fuel pump. Until today I haven’d found an explanation for these marks. Because they look authentic I decided to leave them where the are.

After I protected all threads and chassis numbers with dummy screws the chassis could be delivered at sand blasting company.

ChassisBlasted

The chassis looked as new after it was sand blasted, there are only two places with minimal rust(on both side where the battery was located). I sandpapered the whole chassis before I sprayed it in epoxy primer. After the paint was full dried I filled up all seams with 3M seams kit.

ChassisPrimer

The last step for the restoration of the chassis was spraying it into two layers of black chassis paint.

ChassisPaint

 Posted by at 15:26

Chassis

 Chassis  No Responses »
sep 202010
 

All parts which where removed from the chassis, by the previous owner, have been decreased thoroughly.
After the decreasing process as been finished all parts are bead blasted until the whole surface is rust free, as you can see on the following pictures.

PartsCleaned3PartsCleaned2PartsCleaned1PartsCleaned4
Now all parts can be painted in epoxy primer and, last but not least, filling up all gaps with 3M gap sealant “naden kit”

PartsEpoxyPrimer3PartsEpoxyPrimer2PartsEpoxyPrimer1
All parts are now ready to be painted with two layers of black satin gloss paint.

 Posted by at 14:34

Lower Body

 Body, Lower Body  No Responses »
aug 182010
 

The lower body side was partly covered with dirt and undercoating. The undercoating had already been released in many places and must be removed completely to be able to remove all rust.

LowerBodyClean

Dirt and undercoating removed

Now all rust in the above picture must be removed. With the help of some chemicals and steel brushes the job was finished successfully.

LowerBodyRustRemoved

All rust on the bottom side removed

Now the fun part could start, spraying the underside body with Epoxy primer. But before the spraying could start we finished the whole surface with sand paper, en just before spraying removed all dust with thinner.

LowerBodyExpoxy LowerBodySealer
After the epoxy primer is  thoroughly dried all seams are filled with 3M seal-kit. This kit, the small black lines in the above right picture, will creep between  the different layers of sheet metal. When the procedure is performed on both sides the space between different layers of sheet-metal will be hermetically sealed. So hopefully no rust anymore 🙂

LowerBodyAntiChipping LowerBodyPainted
 The last process step is adding a thick layer of anti chipping material and last but not least two layers of black paint. The last layer of paint will make it more easily to remove dirt from the underside in the near future.

 Posted by at 12:37

Lower Rear Panel

 Lower Rear Panel  No Responses »
aug 012010
 

When I received the car I already noticed the damage on the lower rear panel. I looked like some kind of parking damage maybe 40 years ago. The metal hidden behind several layer of paint and tick layers ot putty was completely crumpled and beyond repair.
This is a very difficult part to make by your one because it is curved in two directions. This is only possible with a the help of a English wheel, which is not available in a do it your self workshop.
After a small search on the internet I found a guy in Madeira who could deliver this part for only €165 (including shipping costs)
The URL of this company is    http://www.nsfcoachbuilders.com/sale_parts/Jaguar_XK_140

LowerRearPanelLeftBeforeLowerRearPanelRightBefore
LowerRearPanelAfter
 

After the new panel was remounted the overlapping areas on both sides should be filled with lead. I don’t want to use putty because originally they used lead as well. Lead soldering looks easy but it is much more difficult as it looks. The advantage is that the lead can be reused time after time. So with a lot of patient I succeeded at the end. With just a thin layer of zinc spray everything looks like new again.

LowerRearPanelLeftAfterLowerRearPanelRightAfter
LowerRearPanelLeftFinishedLowerRearPanelRightFinished

 Posted by at 14:53

Car Body Rotator

 Car Body Rotater  No Responses »
jan 262010
 

For the restoration of a classic car you need a lot of room. My garage only measures 6,5m by 3,05m, which is far to small. So a lot of separate parts are moved to the attic to make more room in the garage. Because only the chassis and body alone take a lot of space, I have been looking for a tools which make it easier to move them around.

On the internet I found the so called “Auto Body Rotator”. I Bought 5 lengths of square steel pipes and 8 swivel wheels, and after two day of hard work it was fished.

My home made Car

My home made auto body rotater

Now I was able to move the chassis including the body in and out of my garage to reverse it or make temporary more room. It also helps to work on the underside of the body or chassis, because the whole car can be turned and fixed at every 30 degrees. On the following two picture you can see the turner in action:

BodyRotater2BodyRotater1

 Posted by at 12:51

XK150

 XK150  No Responses »
jan 012010
 

XK150 01-General Information
XK150 02-Engine
XK150 03-Fuel
XK150 04-Cooling
XK150 05-Exhaust
XK150 06-Clutch
XK150 07-Gearbox
XK150 08-Front Suspension
XK150 09-Steering
XK150 10-Rear Axle
XK150 11-Brakes
XK150 12-Chassis
XK150 13-Electrical
XK150 14-Tool Kit
XK150 15-Optional Extras

 

XK150 01-General Information Body
XK150 02-Body Panels-OTS
XK150 03-Body Fittings-OTS
XK150 04-body panels-FHC
XK150 05-Body Fittings-FHC
XK150 06-Body panels-DHC
XK150 07-Body Fittings-DHC

 Posted by at 16:38

Gearbox Cover I

 Gearbox Cover  No Responses »
aug 032009
 

Before I could start with fitting the gearbox cover the bulkhead and driveshaft tunnel needs to be fixed.
For some reason it looked like they have removed the gearbox from the car compartment, and needed some extra room. They used a chisel to open up the bulkhead and drive shaft tunnel for about 4 inch.

BulkheadBeforeBulkheadAfter
TunnelBeforeTunnelAfter
I had to reproduce or buy a gearbox cover because this part was not available anymore. Buying one on the internet is very expensive (used or new) so I decided to make one myself from the sheet metal left from the other jobs.

In the direct neighborhood of my home there is a jaguar garage situated and I could borough one from them. It was a cover from a XK150 but they should be interchangeable and could be used as an example.

GearboxCover1GearboxCover2

 Posted by at 21:45
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